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Ways to Keep Your Pet Safe in the Snow

One of the cutest and most enjoyable experiences is watching your dog play in the snow for their first time. They leap and prance around in all that weird white stuff and try and eat the whole backyard.

It’s cute to watch, but with record breaking snowstorms hitting Midwest and Northern states last year, it’s important to exercise good pet safety during events like this.

Before letting your dog go crazy in the snow, make sure you know the potential hazards and precautions advised from veterinarians.

This pet safety article will help dispel the myths associated with snow fall, and help you and your dog have fun this winter.

Start Off Slow

Some dogs jump right in, some dogs stick a paw in first. When it comes to your puppies or senior dogs, make sure they stick a paw in first. Puppies and younger dogs have a harder time acclimating to the cold than older dogs. Let them get used to the snow and regulating their body temperature first, then gradually if they are not shivering let them stay outside for longer.

Just like us, doggies’ coats need to get accustomed to the temperature change. After a week or so with snowfall, it’s time to take the longer walks to get your dog exercised.

All Dogs Are Different

Senior dogs have an especially hard time adapting their bodies to the cold weather. Pet safety experts state that dogs with diabetes, arthritis, or an altered metabolism are going to need special attention when the temperatures start withering.

Breed type also affects body temperature regulation. Small dogs have a harder time staying warm, but most importantly is coat length. Short haired breeds like Chihuahua, Miniature Greyhound, and American Pit Bull Terriers all hate the cold.

Adversely, long haired breeds love it! Dogs like Welsh Corgis, Old English Sheepdogs, and even a Pomeranian love making doggie-angels in the snow.

Prepare Your Doggie!

Dog’s can’t speak English. If you see your dog shivering as the winter approaches, stock-up on sweaters, coats, and dog booties. Pet safety goggles are even available to protect your dog’s eye from debris and the glare from the sun in the snow.

Also wiping your dog’s paws off when they come back inside will help them warm back up. Keep pads and paws dry and free from snow that will melt inside and keep them wet.

Be Intuitive

Last year, parts of Chicago were 10 degrees colder than the surface of Mars. Dog’s can’t live on Mars, so make sure you are being observant of your dog’s comfort when you are taking them out.

If the wind chill is penetrating you through your ski jacket and thermals, your dog’s coat is definitely not prepared for freezing wind. Proper pet safety means knowing the behavior that says I’m too cold.

If your dog is shivering or holding up their paw because they’re frozen then it’s time to get inside and warm up!

Make Bathroom Time Quicker

Shoveling a route for your dog to get to a patch of grass is always a good idea. Make sure it’s easily accessible and close enough to your house they can make it back quickly but still have it be agreeable to their doggie instincts.

You can start off with 2-3 minute increments outside. Take it back to the days of potty training.

Some dog’s can only “go” when on a walk, and during the winter dog’s need to learn a new routine.

Let your dog out for a few minutes, then when they come back in give them a treat. This will reinforce good behavior of them “going” in the backyard.

If the area you’re using is too cold, try somewhere else with more cover from falling snow. Try and take your dog’s out when the sun is out, or when it’s not snowing.

Rock Salt and Antifreeze Can Be Harmful

Antifreeze is poisonous for dogs and tastes good to them. Dogs will lick it off the ground or paws after you’re done working on your car and this can be seriously harmful to them. Avoid driveways and sidewalks that can have a blue or green colored substance poured over the walkway.

Rock salt is not toxic, but can cause an upset stomach. Without doggie booties the salt can also irritate a dog’s pads.

Pet safe rock salt is a good option to keep for good pet safety.

How to Warm Your Doggie Back Up

After you get back in from a romp in the snow. Make sure you dry off your dog’s coat and paws.

  • Use a towel or blanket to cover them.
  • Use a blow dryer on low settings so you don’t actually burn them.
  • Avoid heating pads which can also cause burns.
  • Microwaved rice in a sock is good pet safety substitute.

Always gauge warming pet products against your wrist to make sure they are not too hot for your dog’s skin.

If it’s too hot for your skin, it’s probably too hot for the doggie.

Treat Cracked Pads

Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique has recently launched an aromatherapy line complete with Paw Balm which is a perfect ointment for cracked paws during the winter.

We also have an effervescent Marine Pawdicure scrub that helps exfoliate and protects doggie pads and paws.

Not to mention these products relax your dog and put them in a winter heaven bliss.

Indoor Exercise

Even in the lazy depths of winter dogs still need to get plenty of exercise to get out all that pent up energy out.

Since the snowstorms keep everyone inside you might need to invest in a few toys to keep your dog entertained during the snowstorms.

Kong balls with stuffed peanut butter on the inside, tug-of-war pet safety certified ropes, and puzzle feeders & problem solving toys can keep a dog’s mind active and them moving around.

Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique wishes you a warm holiday, even when the temperatures are cold. Burrr!

In Emergency Situations

Nobody likes to think about accidents or injuries involving their pets, but preparing in advance will protect your dog in case of a winter emergency. Make a pet emergency kit or “go bag” now to be prepared for for any potential disaster.

Your basic pet emergency kit should include:

  • Food and water supplies for at least a week.
  • Extra leash and collar set.
  • Medications and medical records stored in a waterproof container.
  • A pet first-aid kit and guide
  • Up-to-date vaccination records, recent photographs, and vet contact information, laminated or stored in a waterproof bag.
  • A laminated copy of written information about your dog’s feeding schedule, medical needs, and behavioral issues in case you become. In the unfortunate event that you and your dog become separated during an emergency, this will help caretakers look after your pet until you can be reunited.

For winter emergencies, your kit may also include an extra dog coat, disposable booties, microfiber pet towels, paw and nose balm, and a hot water bottle.

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How to Keep your Pet Safe During Fireworks

With July 4th coming up, it’s easy to get yourself excited about fireworks and having a good time with family and friends. However, don’t forget about your dog and their natural instinct to be scared of fireworks. Dogs and fireworks aren’t a good combination, they are often afraid of booming flashing lights in the sky and many pet parents seem to forget how to safely protect a dog in this situation.

It’s okay for your dog to be afraid of fireworks! It’s always good to remember that dogs have much stronger senses than humans do. Don’t be surprised if a firework makes your dog panic, however there are many ways to ease the firework phobia for your pet so that you both can enjoy Fourth of July together.

Not All Dogs are Afraid of Fireworks

dogs scared of fireworks

Just like humans, dogs are individuals with their own set of fears and personality quirks. Just as some dogs can swim and some dogs can’t, some dogs are afraid of fireworks while other dogs aren’t. For dog safety, pet parents should avoid making assumptions about how their dogs will respond to fireworks. Never force a dog to be near fireworks if you don’t know how they will respond.

However cats are a different story, it’s safe to say just about every cat is afraid of loud noises from fireworks. Your cat will probably already have that “safe space” that we’ll talk about later. However it’s always a good idea to keep extra water and food in the area that your cat usually goes to be away from loud noise.

Plan Ahead for Pet Safety

It’s always better to plan ahead for your pets safety. We talked last week about planning ahead during a natural disaster. It’s always best to prepare to plan your activities ahead of time, this way you can better prepare your dog or cat by moving them away from the loud noise. If you plan to go somewhere and bring your dog with you, it’s better to get them away from people to prevent accidental biting or nervous responses.

You should never force a dog to be in a situation they don’t want to be. This not only can be dangerous for your pet, it can also be dangerous for you and other people around you enjoying the fireworks. Most dogs are afraid of thunderstorms and with fireworks that intensity can be even worse. The reason fireworks can be worse is that they come without warning, this can be very startling for dogs.

Create a Safe Space for your Pet

The great thing is you have tons of time to prepare for how your dog will respond. One of the best things you can do for your dog or cat is to create a safe space for your pet to experience fireworks in. This doesn’t mean putting them anywhere near the fireworks, but you can create a safe space in a dim room, or one of their favorite rooms with familiar blankets and toys around them.

Having a safe space will help ease the experience of your pets negative response to fireworks while also allowing you to enjoy your Fourth of July experience. If you plan on leaving your dog at home always leave them a safe place to go and “hide” so that they can feel calm with or without you.pet fireworks

Communicate with your Pet

If you’re going to be with your dog during the fireworks, it’s always best to give them a calming message so that they know there is nothing to worry about. It’s good to remember that dogs communicate with energy and will look for clues on how they should behave. If you’re not making a big deal or showing excitement about the fireworks, then your dog will be less concerned as well. When you have kids running around and screaming you can see why a dog might feel scared.

This video may help your dog relax during the fireworks!

Helping your dog relaxed with calming energy is always important during the Fourth of July. It’s always a good idea to take your dog for a long walk before the fireworks start to put them in a calm state. Don’t feel guilty by leaving your dog at home, they won’t know they are missing the excitement of the fireworks. When the big bang of July Fourth is over your dog will be happy that you made it a less stressful experience by reading our Splash and Dash July Fourth Safety article!

 

Are You and Your Pet Prepared for a Natural Disaster?

If there was an emergency and you had to evacuate in 10 minutes or less, do you have a plan for your pets? Take the initiative today to prepare and create an emergency preparedness plan that includes the safety of your pets.

What to do during a natural disaster

  • Always bring your pet with you during a natural disaster
  • Ensure that your pet is microchipped
  • Identify any pet friendly accommodations in advance
  • Always keep your pets medical records up to date

What not to do during a natural disaster

  • Travel without a pet carrier
  • Wait until last minute to make vet appointments
  • Leave your pet chained outside

Always be Prepared

Another important thing to note is that in every disaster scenario it’s always safer to evacuate WITH your family and pets. However, keep it mind that boarding facilities such as kennels and animal shelters require that your pets have all of their vaccinations up to date. It’s possible to be turned away if your pets don’t have their vaccinations up to date. Many emergency shelters don’t accept pets for health and safety reasons, so pet-friendly shelters usually fill up quickly.

pet safety during natural disaster pet safety during natural disaster

 

Additional Resources

Ready.gov
FEMA.gov
CDC.gov
RedCross.org

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Summertime Guide to Walking the Dog

How to Exercise Pet Safety While Walking the Dog in the Heat of Summer

Walking the dog is one of the best ways for our four-legged companions to get exercise and explore the world. Dogs both love and need to be walked. Walking provides great exercise and allows dogs to partake in their favorite ancestral habit—peeing on everything. With the heat indexes rising, it’s important to know when it’s too hot to walk your dog. Also important is knowing the best ways to keep them from experiencing heat stroke (hyperthermia).

According to a British Veterinary Association study, 48% of vet clinics had to treat dogs for heat stroke during the summer months. The two prevailing reasons heat stroke occurs is because owners neglectfully leave their dogs in cars and dogs overheat due to vigorous exercise while on a walk. Many pet parents aren’t even aware that their dog is severely overheating. Even when the air temperature is only 86-degrees F, the asphalt temperature can swelter to 135-degrees F—hot enough to fry an egg in five minutes. Imagine this on your dog’s paw pads!

Dogs also have a different way of cooling down than humans. Humans regulate heat by sweating. The primary cooling method for a dog is, of course, panting. The way it works is a dog’s tongue swells up—fills with warm blood—while air is forced rapidly over the tongue. As a dog pants, their breathing matches the natural resonant frequency of the airways. This allows warm moisture to evaporate from the tongue which is exhaled while cooled blood returns from the tongue into the body. Dogs have small sweat glands on their feet but these sweat glands are not enough to be a thorough heat losing mechanism.

Heat Strokes (Hyperthermia) in Dogs

The veterinary definition of hyperthermia is when a dog’s body temperature is elevated beyond an accepted normal range. The temperature typically associated with hyperthermia is 106-degrees F. At this temperature, inflammation of the body occurs with a possibility of brain damage and even fatality. This makes it very important to be observant while walking the dog in hot temperatures.

Symptoms of Hyperthermia:

  • Red Gums
  • Non-Production of Urine
  • Sudden Kidney Failure
  • Shock
  • Heart & Lung Failure
  • Vomiting Blood
  • Blood in Stool
  • Seizures
  • Lethargy
  • Muscle Tremors
  • Uncoordinated Movement
  • Unconsciousness

The two most common factors behind dogs overheating are easily preventable. Being aware of the environmental temperature and your dog’s body language can help prevent them from getting hypothermia. When walking the dog in the heat, the increased muscle activity generates an exorbitant amount of body heat. The rise in environmental heat puts dogs at risk during long walks, without shade or access to water. As you walk the dog, continually monitor their behavior and make sure you take breaks if they are excessively panting. Providing water for them to drink at these breaks is also important.

Leaving a dog in the cark is another easily prevented situation that leads to dogs overheating. Even on a fair day, it only takes minutes for a parked car to turn a car into a brick oven. Even with the windows cracked it is not safe. On a 78-degree day, the inside of a parked car will swelter to 100 degrees in a few minutes. If you need to run errands and cannot bring your dog, please leave them at home in the air conditioning, instead of in a parked car.

Dogs that are Susceptible to Overheating:

  • Young puppies & senior dogs have a harder time regulating their internal body temperature
  • Obese dogs have extra layers of insulation in the form of fat which prevents them from cooling
  • Brachycephalic dogs (squishy faced breeds) have a more restricted breathing pathway which hinders them from cooling down
  • Dogs diagnosed with laryngeal paralysis (narrow breathing passage) also have a more difficult time breathing and consequently harder time dissipating heat
  • Dogs with dark coats who absorb more solar radiation instead of reflecting it

How to Avoid Heat Stroke While Walking the Dog

Timing of the Walk

A little bit of common sense goes a long way for your dog’s safety. The middle of the day, when the sun is highest in the sky, is, of course, going to be the hottest time of day. Try and take your dog for a walk either early in the morning, or late at night, when the temperature isn’t quite as scorching. If you have a dog-walker take your dog out while you are at work, ensure they are walking your dog at an appropriate time.

Route of the Walk

Try and pick a route that avoids asphalt and concrete. Find a route that is shady. This will avoid any unnecessary heat that your dog experiences. Also, make sure they have access to plenty of water. Bring a collapsible water bowl and water bottle for frequent breaks where your dog can re-hydrate.

Dog Boots & Socks

A pair of dog shoes can help protect a dog’s paw pads from the heat radiating from the ground. They also protect a dog’s paws during any season from elements like rocks, broken glass, burrs, snow salt, and other debris which can be dangerous.

Go for a Swim

Dogs need plenty of exercise, even in the summer, but hot temperatures make pet owners consider other ways for dogs to get some exercise. Instead of walking, or going to the dog park, why not visit the dog beach? Swimming is a great form of exercise and helps cool a dog off.

Moisturized Dog Paw Pads

A dog’s paw pads are naturally tough but were never meant to walk over the hot asphalt and concrete. Paw pads can become cracked, irritated, and collect debris from the ground that can damage the paw pad. If your dog is vulnerable to damaged paw pads you can apply coconut oil to their paws to help alleviate any irritation. Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique also offers a ‘pawdicure’ service that moisturizes your pup’s paw pads—preventing cracking, peeling, and cleansing away bacteria with an effervescent scrub.

Trimming the Nails and Hair Between the Toes

Having your veterinarian or groomer trim the hair between a dog’s toes helps them gain traction. It also prevents dirt, twigs, and other debris on the ground from getting lodged into their paws. Maintaining a dog’s paw-fur also helps with a dog’s natural temperature regulation.

Trimming a dog’s nails might not help with keeping them cool but it is equally important for their health.

 

Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique wish you luck while walking the dog this summer. Please be safe and make sure your dog has plenty of water and shade. In the worst case scenario, if your dog does experience heat stroke, know how to cool your dog down.

For tips on bringing your dog’s body temperature down, click here.

 

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How Hot is Too Hot for a Dog to be Left in the Car?

The summer 0f 2017 is shaping up to be the second-hottest summer on record, according to Scientific American. Each of the last three years has broken global high-temperature records. This is pushing heat indexes well over 100 degrees in some states. States like Texas, Mississippi, Kentucky, and Illinois are experiencing scorching heat waves that are leaving many wondering how hot is too hot for a dog to be in a parked car?

You should never, under any circumstances leave a dog in a parked car—even with the windows open. Cars can become furnaces in the summer heat. At 78-degrees, the inside of a parked car can climb to 100 degrees in minutes. It only takes 10 minutes for the interior temperature of a car to reach a potentially fatal 109 degrees on 90-degree day. Since dogs can only regulate heat through panting and minor sweat glands on their footpads, temperatures above 104-degrees put them at high risk of overheating (hyperthermia).

It is simply way too hot for them.

Dogs with wrinkly faces (brachycephalic) are even more susceptible to overheating like Bulldogs and Pugs. Obese dogs, puppies, or senior dogs also have a higher chance of suffering from heatstroke. Medical conditions like respiratory disease, heart disease, lung disease, or central nervous system disease put dogs at higher risks too. Knowing how hot, is too hot, for a dog is important when the temperature swelters to dangerous notches in a mercury thermometer.

A responsible guardian should look for other ways around leaving a dog in a hot parked car!

How Hot is Too Hot for a Dog?

When the outside temperature reaches 90-degrees, heat must dissipate through evaporation. For humans, this means sweating, and of course, for dogs, this means panting. If a puppy or dog’s body temperature exceeds 103-degrees, veterinarians consider this abnormal or hyperthermic. At this point, dogs will begin exhibiting symptoms of hyperthermia. Symptoms include excessive drooling, bloodshot eyes, and muscle tremors.

A body temperature of 106-degrees—not caused by a previously diagnosed illness is most likely from external or environmental heat. At 107-degrees—the critical point—multiple organ failures, and even death can become imminent. For this reason, it’s important to know how to reverse internal body temperatures.

How to Reverse Overheating

An overheating dog is an immediate medical emergency. Dog owners need to take urgent steps to lower their dog’s body temperature or risk brain damage, organ failure, or death.

Your dog should always have access to water and shady areas. If a dog is showing signs of overheating make sure they still have something to drink. Add a pinch of salt to replace any minerals a dog has lost during panting.

Take cool (not cold) water and pour it over a dog’s head, stomach, armpits, and feet. If there is a bathtub nearby you can also submerge your dog in cool water—holding their head up to prevent aspiration pneumonia. You should also massage your dog’s limbs vigorously to restore blood circulation. Placing a cold packet on your dog’s head will also bring their body temperature down.

Always call emergency veterinary service so they can properly assess your dog’s condition.

What to do if You Come Across a Dog in a Hot Car?

Time is imperative when it comes to preventing a dog from getting brain damage. At a sustained 107-degree body temperature, it can take only 15 minutes for brain damage to occur.

If you see a dog in a parked car, take down the car’s color, model, make, and license plate number. Try and have the owner paged in the nearest building over an intercom system or through a businesses registry.

If needed, call the humane authorities or police.

Alternative to Leaving a dog in Parked Car

Even when the weather is fair it’s a good practice never to leave your dog in the car. There are plenty of alternatives that don’t put your dog in any danger and still allow you take a cruise with them.

Drive Through/Curbside Service

When you go out to eat, drive around a drive-through or order curbside service. Most restaurants have mobile apps that make this super convenient and easy. This way you get the food you want and your pup has companionship through the whole process.

The Buddy System

If you want to bring your dog for a ride, bring a friend or family member to watch over them while you run inside for errands. This way you can leave the car on with the air conditioning running, without worrying.

Pet-Friendly Places

With over 68% of the U.S. population owning a pet, dog-friendly establishments are becoming more popular. Restaurants with outdoor dining are usually fine with you bringing your dog in. Some shopping malls have even opened their doors to our canine companions too!

Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique wishes the best for dogs of all sizes and shapes! We adore animals and hate to see when animals suffer from negligence. Please be responsible this summer and know when it is too hot your dog to be in a parked car.

 

Play Dirty. Live Clean.

 

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How to Prevent Injuries to Your Dog’s Paw Pads

When is the Heat Dangerous for Dog Paw Pads?

On scorching summer days, humans have the privilege of wearing flip-flops and shoes to protect their feet from the asphalt or concrete ground. Asphalt absorbs the sun’s rays, making a perfect surface area to fry an egg, or cause injury to a dog paw pad. Air temperature can be misleading. At only 77 degrees Fahrenheit, asphalt temperature can reach 125 degrees—hot enough for skin destruction to occur after 60 seconds of contact. At this temperature, asphalt is only six degrees short of being able to fry an egg in five minutes. Since air temperature is not always an accurate reflection of ground temperature, it’s important to be aware of the heat index to protect your dog’s paw pads!

Dogs are what’s known as a digitigrade species. This means that they walk on their toes, unlike plantigrade species, who use the entire sole of their feet to move. The part of a dog’s paw that makes the most contact with the ground is the pads.The metacarpal,  metatarsal, and digital pads function as the load-bearing, shock-absorbing pads. Although these dog paw pads are tough, they can only take so much heat before injury can occur. The carpal pad makes less contact with the ground and is used for skid and traction when a dog is on an incline or stopping.  

A dog’s paw has five basic parts:

  • Claw
  • Digital Pads
  • Metacarpal Pad (front paws)
  • Metatarsal Pad (rear paws)
  • Dew Claw
  • Carpal Pad

The Five Second Rule

If you live in a hot climate, with temperatures that reach into the 90’s then you need to know the ten-second rule. Veterinarians agree, this is one of the simplest and best gauges to discern if the ground is too hot for a dog paw pad.

To assess the heat level, place the back of your hand against the pavement. If you cannot hold it for five seconds, it’s too hot to walk your dog. If the back of your hand is uncomfortable, it can be painful for your dog to walk on this surface. When the pavement reaches this temperature, many dogs will whimper or begin ‘high-stepping’ on the pavement.

If this is the case, stop the walk. Try and find shady areas or routes that are not in direct contact with the sun. Grass and dirt paths won’t absorb as much heat, so you can try sticking to these walkways.

Dog Boots Or Shoes

Some awesome pet supplies you can get for your dog are dog shoes. A dog paw can only withstand so many of the elements and dog shoes come in handy for more than one season. Dog boots, or shoes, can protect dog paws from rain, snow, salt, and heat. Also, any sharp debris, burrs, or salts that can injure a dog’s paw pads cannot pierce through the material.

High-quality dog shoes made with durable moisture-resistant materials, keeping sharp objects and water out. They also are equipped with reflective straps for extra visibility and protection during night walks.

If you live in a hot climate or a major city with tons of concrete, consider getting your dog some extra protection.

Let Your Dog Dig

Yes, dogs do tear up our backyards as a form of entertainment but many are also doing this to keep cool. Soil further from the ground surface-level is less hot and your dog’s digging efforts may be an effort to reach this cooler soil. If it’s possible, locate a shady area where you allow your dog to dig.

If you want to keep your backyard pristine, it’s better to just keep your dog inside with the A/C cranked. Remember if your dog gets dirty you can take them by your local Splash and Dash for unlimited bathing, brushing, and loving!

Summer Swimming

We at Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique believe that exercise for dogs is very important! When the heat is unbearable, your dog still needs to get all their energy out. Instead of a walk, why not head down to your local dog beach or lake for a swim?

If neither of these is an option for your doggo, you can think of buying a paddling pool for your dog to splash around in. A paddling pool helps them cool down without presenting the danger to their dog paw pads.

Keep Dog Paw Pads Moisturized

A dog’s paw pad is naturally tough but dogs aren’t meant to walk over the hard, hot surfaces like concrete and asphalt. Combined with frequent walks overtime, it may be necessary to moisturize your dog’s paw pads. Moisturizing their paw pads can help prevent cracking, peeling, and minor injuries. Even more helpful, Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique offers a pawdicure treatment that not only moisturizes a dog’s paws but removes bacteria through a cleansing effervescent scrub.

More Tips to be Safe in the Heat

Not only should dog owners be cognizant of their dog’s paw pads but be aware of heatstroke in general. Nordic dogs with double coats have a natural insulation process but have a higher chance of overheating when the heat index is over 100 degrees. When you are not home, the best practice is to leave your dog inside with the air conditioner running. Never leave your dog in a parked car! Temperatures can reach fatal levels in minutes.

Start a walking schedule that is either early in the morning, or late at night, when the pavements had time to cool off. When walking, stick to pathways that are not asphalt or concrete and remember the five-second rule. Bring a water bottle and collapsible bowl for your dog to drink from. If your dog starts exhibiting any signs of heatstroke, stop walking immediately and help cool him down.

Dog Heat Stroke Signs Include:

  • Red Gums
  • Non-Production of Urine
  • Sudden Kidney Failure
  • Shock
  • Heart & Lung Failure
  • Vomiting Blood
  • Blood in Stool
  • Seizures
  • Lethargy
  • Muscle Tremors
  • Uncoordinated Movement
  • Unconsciousness

If your dog begins symptoms of heatstroke, contact emergency veterinary services. In the meantime, there are some things you can do at home to help them reach a healthy temperature.

Steps to Cooling Your Dog Down:

  1. Place them in a bathtub or a cool (not cold) body of water. If this is not an option run cool hose water over their coat.
  2. Allow water to fill up the tub, keeping their head elevated to prevent aspiration pneumonia.
  3. Apply a cold pack to your dog’s head to lower body temperature.
  4. Massage their limbs. This helps circulate their bloodstream and reduces the risks of shock.
  5. Let him drink as much water as he wants and add a pinch of salt to replace minerals lost from panting.

For more information of dog heatstroke, click here!

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Using Cooling Pads for Your Dog Will Help Him Get Through the Summer

The heat of the summer can be tough on your doggo. As the mercury rises and the sun’s rays belt down, some dogs have a harder time keeping themselves cool. New technology found in a dog cooling pad can make it easier for all our four-legged friends. Instead of your dog plopping down on your floor, they can have their own cooling pad to keep the sweltering temperatures at bay.

Keeping your dog cool during the summer is a simple process that is also very important. We at Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique recommend keeping your dog inside when you’re not home. This keeps them out of the hot temperatures in the comfort of air conditioning. If this is not an option, make sure your dog has access to shade and plenty of water while outside. Providing a cooling pad can also help your dog from overheating, which can lead to heat-related illnesses.

Nordic dogs with thick double coats are especially vulnerable to maladies caused from overheating (hyperthermia). Huskies, Australian Shepherds, and Pomeranian are just a few of the breeds of dogs that will benefit from a cooling pad. Many cooling pads significantly lessen the chance of heat stroke and hypertension. Also, dogs who have cushing’s disease, arthritis, and skin conditions benefit from having a cooling pad against their skin.

This article will discuss the different types of cooling pads found on the market and which ones we think are the best for your dog.

Different Cooling Pad Designs

Depending on your budget and your dog’s needs will affect what kind of cooling pad you will want to buy. There are cooling pads designed to go in a crate, outside, or as an addition to a dog bed.

Automatic Cooling Gel Pad

Most pet stores recommend this cooling pad design because it is the most effective and inexpensive option for your dog. An automatic cooling gel pad comes pre-filled with a cooling gel that is usually activated by pressure. When your dog lays on the pad, the pad will lower in temperature anywhere from 5-10 degrees lower than the outside temperature. Some brands will cool down even lower. Many automatic cooling gel pads will stay at this range for three to four hours before automatically recharging.

Water Filled Cooling Pad

These cooling pads are on the lower-tech side but are relatively cheap. Water filled cooling pads are good for temporary use when traveling with your dog. The design is simple. Just fill the pad with water and place it in the freezer or refrigerator. When the cooling pad reaches the desired temperature, place it out for your dog. The tricky thing about these cooling pads is finding the most suitable temperature for your dog. They will only stay cool for around 2 hours before you will need to place it back in the refrigerator.

Simple Gel Cooling Pad

This is probably the cheapest option for pet owners. The pre-filled gel remains at a constant temperature that is usually between five to ten degrees lower than the outside temperature. If you live in a climate that is not overwhelmingly hot, this might be the best option for your dog.

Our Top Five Favorite Options

Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique considered tons of cooling pads on the market and whittled the list down to our top five favorites. We considered price, effectiveness, and features to find the best cooling pads.  

Pet Dog Self Cooling Mat Pad for Kennels by Arf Pets

Features:

  • Automatic Recharging Cooling Relief for up to Three Hours
  • Flexible Mat Design
  • 100% Safe for Animals made with Non-Toxic & Latex Free Materials
  • Durable Gel Construction
  • Three Sizes

Price: $69.99–$104.99

 

Premium Pet Self Cooling Pad by The Green Shop Pet

Features:

  • Pressure Activated Cooling System
  • Cooling Relief for Up to 4 Hours
  • Automatically Recharges After 15 Minutes of Non-Use
  • Durable Gel Construction
  • Five Sizes

Price: $19.98–$59.99

 

Cool Bed III by K&H Pet Products

Features:

  • Water Saturated Cool Core Which Absorbs Pet’s Heat
  • Fill Once With No Tools Necessary
  • Durable Construction from Nylon & Vinyl
  • Recommended for Outdoor/Indoor Use
  • Three Sizes

Price: $27.22–$49.99

 

Coleman Pet Cooling Mat by Coleman

Features:

  • Maintained Five to Ten Degrees Less than Outside Temperature
  • No Refrigeration Necessary
  • 100% Non-Toxic
  • Three Sizes

Price: $17.88–$25.99

 

Chillz Pad Comfort Cooling Gel Pad by Hugs Pet Products

Features:

  • Rechargeable 100% Non-Toxic Gel Technology Absorbs Body Heat
  • Recommended for Indoor/Outdoor Use
  • Puncture Resistant Material
  • Three Sizes

Price: $12.98–$29.98

 

More Cooling Options for the Summer

Living in a warm climate and having a dog with a thick coat is not always an ideal situation for their comfort and health. It is important to maintain a grooming schedule during the summer months to ensure coat length is optimal. We recommend having your groomer trim down a dog’s belly fur so they have more skin contact with a cooling pad. Brushing is also especially important to keep a dog’s shedding hairs from getting trapped in their coat.

 

Besides setting up a cooling pad for your dog, you might consider taking them for a swim. If you don’t have access to a dog-friendly beach or lake, you can always get a paddling pool for your backyard. If your dog loves the water, they’ll love a paddling pool! Your dog can splash around in fresh water, giving them a break from the heat. Backyard misting systems are also a fun option that supplies your dog with refreshing water.

 

Also in this vein are cooling vests that you can wrap around your dog’s body. Many of these vests reflect solar radiation while evaporating, which draws heat away from a dog. Activating a cooling vest is as simple as soaking the vest in water, wringing the vest out, and placing it on your dog.

 

Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique urge you to be mindful of the scorching temperatures when it comes to your dog. Preventing overheating is as simple as making sure your dog has enough water, access to shade, and is inside when alone. Getting a cooling pad or any other cooling system can help your dog be their most comfortable this summer!

 

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10 Things to Remember When Choosing a Dog Training Collar

I have spent time with dogs that are a little fluffy parcel sent from heaven and dogs that are a fiery furrball from hell. Adopting a rescue dog from the streets is an amazing experience and some of the sweetest dogs I’ve worked with were rescue dogs. However, some rescue dogs can have aggression or anxiety issues resulting from their past. Dogs from breeders can also exhibit unwanted aggressive behavior. Many choose to use a dog training collar as a tool to help with behavior modification.

There are several types of dog training collars you can choose from. For the purposes of this article, we will focus on e-collars or more controversially put “shock collars.” This article will simply present information and leave you to choose the best option for your dog. If you have an aggressive dog at home, please seek out professional advice from a dog trainer before deciding on using any dog training collar. We encourage pet owners to make humane and safe decisions for their dogs!

Shock collars were first used in the 1960’s with hunting dogs. Although they are not intended for punishment they do administer a shock. Most e-collars have varying levels of intensity and dog trainers recommend finding a “working level” for dog training. The working level is the intensity level at which a dog perceives stimulation that is not painful—but has a nagging, annoying quality. An e-collar is meant to be used as a deterrent to train away negative and unsafe behaviors until dogs no longer need prompting. These kind of collars can be used coinciding with the set boundary of an “invisible fence” or can be set to shock when a dog barks, triggered by the vibration of vocal cords.

Here are ten things to keep in mind when considering a dog training collar for your pooch.

1. Types of Collars

Regular

Flat

A flat collar is the standard collar for dogs. This collar is not considered a training collar—its only functionality is attaching identification and a leash. For proper fitting, allow two fingers width for wiggle room.

Martingale

Also known as a “limited-slip collar,” a martingale is designed for dogs with narrow heads like Afghan hounds or Greyhounds. The collar has a length of material with a metal ring at each end. A separate loop of material slips through each ring and a leash is attached to the ring at the end of this loop. If the dog’s head begins to slip out, the leash will contract. If properly fitted, the collar will tighten to the size of your dog’s neck without choking them.

Head Collar

A head collar fits similarly to a horse’s halter. One strap fits around a dog’s neck—sitting high on their head—while the other strap forms a loop around the dog’s muzzle. The leash attaches to the bottom of the muzzle loop. This leash is typically used for large dogs with the strength to jump and pull at the leash.

Aversive Collars

Choke Chain

This collar is made with metal links that tighten around a dog’s neck if they pull against the leash. The leash is supposed to fit high up on a dog’s neck, above the ears. Unlike the martingale, you have no control over the extent of tightening, so it is possible to accidentally choke a dog with this chain.

Prong or Pinch Collar

Also like a martingale, a prong or pinch collar has a control loop that is made of chain. The chain on this leash has blunted points, fang-shaped metal links, or prongs that face inwardly at a dog’s neck which pinches a dog’s neck when they pull against a leash. The size of these prongs should be appropriate to the size of your dog, but even if fitted correctly, the prongs will shift toward your dog’s trachea, pinching them.

E-Collar or Shock Collar

Shock collars use an electric current which passes through two metal contact points which signal a dog. Most shock collars have varying levels of intensity starting at no stimulation, to a working level, and finally a shocking, painful jolt.

Shock collars need to be fitted so that the prongs are nestled through the fur—against the skin. Caution! Shock collars can irritate and inflame a dog’s skin. Don’t leave a collar on for an extended amount of time and wash your dog’s necks where the contact points touch the skin regularly.

2. Positive Reinforcement Vs. Aversive Behavior Modification

There are two schools of thought when it comes to dog training.

The first and, most industry-preferred method, is positive reinforcement. This is when trainers use rewards and positive incentives to train a dog. The key is to get your dog to associate wanted behavior with treats & affection and unwanted behavior with attention-withdrawal. E.g. If you want to get your dog to stop jumping up—turn around when they jump on you and do not give them attention until they are sitting calmly. Once they are calm, give them treats and affection.

The second method of training is aversive training. This is when trainers or dog owners use collars and other devices to train “challenging” dogs with correction or punishment. Reliance on physical discomfort and sometimes even pain is used to deter unwanted behavior.

Professional dog trainers will use both techniques depending on the case of a dog’s needs. Your job as pet parents is to know the difference. Know the pros and cons of each to make a responsible decision on which training method you want to use with your dog.

3. Importance of Bonding

Both training techniques require developing a sense of trust and kinship with your dog. Using positive behavior reinforcement has the best results when a strong relationship exists. When a dog is eager to please and willing to modify their own behavior, each command you teach them will come quicker.

The same is true when using aversive dog training collars. A shock collar will effectively deter unwanted behaviors like jumping up or incessant barking but there is nothing to reward wanted behaviors like obeying a command to “sit.”  Training with only negative feedback is not always enough to teach new commands.

Later in this article, we will take a look at a UK study which reviewed the effectiveness of using dog training collars that used electric currents contrasted with using positive behavior reinforcement.

Cons of Using Electric Dog Training Collars

4. The Shock

Most pet owners are uncomfortable with inflicting pain onto their pet. Even when e-collars’ intensity can be adjusted, you are still using aversive behavior modification. Not every dog trainer knows to use the working level when training and inexperienced people can accidentally injure their dogs.

5. Misplaced Fear

If you have an aggressive or anxious dog, the last thing you want to do is instill fear. With shock training, some dogs begin to fear people, objects, or situations they begin to associate with the stimulus from the collar. The best way to counteract this disassociation is by limiting distraction when using a dog training collar. This will ensure that your dog associates pulling on the leash with the collar stimulus and not your neighbor’s lawnmower.

6. Over-Correction

This happens when a shock or stimulus is administered with bad timing—too late for a dog to associate behavior with the shock—or when a boundary fence or automatic bark collar delivers shocks unintentionally or too often. Without proper dog training techniques with shock collars, a dog might develop an issue that wasn’t there before. For instance, if a dog associates the collar’s stimulus with being outside, they might start urinating in the house as a result of the shock administered by the electric fence.

7. No Positive Reward

The way a dog inherently learns is through experimentation. With positive reward association, a dog knows they will be given a treat once they figure out what they are supposed to do. Even teaching a puppy to sit for the first time relies on them correlating the act of sitting with the delicious taste of a treat. Using dog training collars as the only means of training limits training to only deterring unwanted behavior.

Pros of Using Electric Dog Training Collars

8. Adjustable Intensity

Most e-collars on the market have a range of stimulus intensities. They also have a warning beep or vibrate mode that precedes a shock. Other collars have sprays which administer harmless but foul scents like citronella or an ultrasonic sound which only a dog can hear.

9. Faster Training Results

Some pet owners and dog trainers report that it only takes a few shocks to correct an unwanted behavior. Robin Macfarlane, a professional dog trainer with nearly 30 years experience, uses e-collars with success. Macfarlane states that using an e-collar provides dogs with an easier learning curve.

10. You Don’t Need to Present

Although sometimes problematic, if you have a dog that is constantly barking when you’re not home, which is irritating the neighbors, e-collars can be a quick fix. A boundary control electric barrier will also continue working when you’re not present. We do advise against leaving your dog unattended for a long period of time or with a shock collar on their neck.

Final Thoughts

Again, it is completely up to you as a dog parent to decide whether you want to use a dog training collar with your pooch. In the case of e-collars, the controversy exists and many will tell you not to use them like The Humane Society and the ASPCA. Still, there are professional dog trainers that endorse aversive training techniques like Robin MacFarlane and Cesar Millan.

In a UK scientific study, 63 pet dogs were used to find an objective scientific approach to the efficacy of using dog collars. The dogs were separated into three groups.

Group A was trained with shock collars by pro-shock dog trainers. Group B, the control group, was trained without shock collars from pro-shock trainers. Finally, Group C was trained without shock by trainers opposed to shock training. All three groups wore e-collars so there would be no difference in physical sensation (besides administered stimulus). This also ensured that observers of the training sessions could not tell which dog’s were being trained with shocks to maintain unbiased results.

The findings reported that “there were no differences between groups for a number of Corticosteroids in dogs’ urine, a physiological marker of stress.” Adversely, “when it came to salivary cortisol, Group C dogs were actually the highest.” As far as functionality of training, there were no differences between the three groups of dogs. 91.8% of owners reported in improvements in their dogs’ behavior.

Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique encourages you to conduct your own research and consider your own dog’s personality before making any final decisions.

 

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10 Things To Do Before Taking a Nervous Dog to the Groomer

Use These Tips to Get Your Nervous Dog to Enjoy Grooming

At Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique we understand the needs of a nervous dog. Many adopted or rescued pets come from a  difficult past. Dogs like this need special devotion to help them overcome their anxiety.

Some dogs love the pet salon while others fear it. A reputable grooming salon takes strides to make a dog’s time there a luxurious and soothing experience. Understandably, for a dog, even this pampering experience can be scary. A pet salon is full of loud noises from the clippers and blow dryers. Dogs can become fearful of other dogs that are also there for a grooming even when dogs are kept separate. All these foreign stimuli can make grooming a traumatic experience for a nervous dog. In some severe cases, dogs can have a full-blown panic attack from not being properly acclimated to the situation.

The issue with nervous dogs is that, for their safety, a professional should be the one doing their grooming. Every dog needs grooming. Without regular brushing, washing, and a trimming a dog’s coat can develop matts. Dogs that are neglected—without grooming—can develop skin irritations. Not to mention a dirty dog means a dirty house. Even though your dog may have some anxiety, she’s still going to need the pet care that comes with grooming.

No matter your dog’s situation, follow these ten steps to help prepare your dog for a positive grooming experience.

Step 1: Massage

When a dog goes to the groomer, a specialist will attend to areas of her body that need to be cleaned—even the sensitive areas. Her ears, groin area, paws, and glands will need to be handled. To get a dog ready for this, you can give your dog a full-body massage. Gently pet your dog from head to toe. Play with her paws and make sure you spread her toes apart. Play with her ears and scratch her bum. Making sure your dog is used to being handled is the first step.

Next, give her a massage on a raised table. This simulates the experience she will have at a grooming salon. Take baby steps with a nervous dog. Whatever you can do to make your dog more comfortable is a good idea. Plenty of soothing languages, treats, or a blanket will help her association with these foreign experiences a pleasant one.

Step 2: Bathing, Brushing, and Supplies

Try exposing your dog to as many of the sensations of grooming as possible. Re-create these experiences in baby steps at home first. Then when your dog is ready, take her to the groomer.

If you can safely give your dog a bath at home, give this a try. Constantly brushing your dog every day is also good for them. Get them used to as many sights and sounds as possible. Turn on a blow dryer so she can hear the sound then give her a treat. Hold up a pair of nail trimmers next to her paws without clipping—then give her a treat.

It might seem excessive, but for a nervous dog, this will help.

Step 3: Make Sure She’s Plenty Exercised

That old expression, “A tired dog is a happy dog” is very true. Not only do dogs crave exploring the world by peeing on everything, they need to get plenty of exercise. Before taking your dog to the groomer make sure she’s had a walk. This will give her time to relieve herself and workout any nervous energy.

Step 4: Find an Understanding Groomer

Not every groomer has the resources or the professional skills to handle an extremely nervous dog. If your dog suffers from anxiety or aggression, inform the groomer of the situation. Some groomers actually specialize in dogs with special needs.

Splash and Dash groomers are thoroughly trained with the professional skillset to accommodate for any dog. Our trained staff will work with you and your pup to ensure a safe and comfortable grooming experience.

Step 5: The Car Ride

When your dog is still a puppy is the best time to start acclimating them to car rides. Car rides can be very stressful for a dog. A car ride is a foreign experience. Your dog may anticipate a stressful destination like the groomers or vet. Take your puppy on car rides while they’re young. This can get them used to the motion of the car and the sounds of traffic. Drive around without a set destination. If your dog is older, you can still counter condition them to make car rides a more pleasant experience.

Bring your dog’s favorite blanket or toy. Make sure they are comfortable. Doggie car seats and restraints will ensure their safety. If your dog has stomach issues during the ride, this is most likely due to motion sickness. If this is the case, discuss anti-nausea medication with your veterinarian. Drive around without a set destination so that your dog will not relate a car ride to a stressful visit to the groomers or vet. This will curb their apprehension. Continually reassure your dog with a calm voice and plenty of treats.

Plan a trip to the groomers after your dog has mastered stress-free car rides.

Step 6: Training Visit

After finding a groomer you and your dog are comfortable with, ask if you can schedule a training visit. On this visit, you can walk around with your dog and help them slowly adjust. Your dog can see the facilities, hear the loud clippers & blow dryers, and can practice standing on a grooming table.

This also presents an opportunity for your dog to meet the groomer. A principled groomer will take the time to meet your dog and help her to relax. During this time a groomer can help coax her nervousness away.

Step 7: Special Equipment for a Nervous Dog

Dogs with anxiety are common. Over the years specialty grooming supplies have been made to adjust the grooming process for a nervous dog.

Scaredy Cut was developed with this purpose. Scaredy Cut are serrated blades with 7 comb attachments—1/2 to 1 or #1 to #6. This allows a groomer to trim a dog’s coat with the same precision of an electric blade. This silent clipper is a less abrasive way for a groomer to trim down a nervous dog’s coat.

Another specialty item that you can consider are Mutt Muffs. This headgear covers your dog’s ear to help them protect their ears against loud noises. Mutt Muffs fits the contour of your dog’s head and straps comfortably in place. The sound-reducing headgear was designed for airplanes but can be useful for dogs at the groomers. Another noise reduction product is the Happy Hoodie which wraps around a dog’s ears and head. This device was made specifically for dogs to help protect and calm them from the loud noise and high-pressured air from a blow-dryer at the grooming salon. The swaddling effect is similar to one that is produced from a Thunder Jacket.

Step 8: Aromatherapy

Many groomers, including Splash and Dash, have adopted aromatherapy into their pet salon treatments. The way aromatherapy works for dogs is through conditioning. You can train your dog to associate the calming scents with peacefulness. The ingredients of aromatherapy dog shampoos are typically botanicals like lavender, chamomile, and essential vitamins. These formulas are designed to induce a calm state.

Splash and Dash has a shampoo dedicated to getting nervous dogs to calm down. The shampoo treatment is aptly named—Relax.

Step 9: Acepromazine

Acepromazine is an over-the-counter tranquilizer and nervous system depressant administered for nervous dogs. The drug works as a dopamine antagonist. It is used to prevent anxiety during thunderstorms, fireworks, and vet or groomer visits. The effects of acepromazine last 6-8 hours and can combat nausea, stabilize heart rhythm, and lower blood pressure.

Before you give your dog any medication, consult your vet first! Your vet will be able to give you directions on a proper dosage for your dog and any expected side effects. Use of Acepromazine should be for a worst-case scenario option.

Some dog’s adrenaline will kick in under stress resulting in a more ‘drunken’ state where their behavior may become erratic. If your dog has been diagnosed with extreme anxiety, you may need to use prescription sedatives or have a veterinarian administer sedation.

Step 10: Take Your Time and Ease Into It

Allow your dog to adjust in baby steps. After a training session, maybe just have your groomer do a bath and brush. Next time, your groomer can try a nail trimming and ear cleaning. Your groomer will work with your dog toward getting a whole grooming session done in one appointment. Each time your dog gets a treat, and plenty of reinforcing loving approval. Over time, your dog will be less nervous and hopefully begin to associate the groomers as a relaxing part of their life.

If you are looking for a special place to bring your fur-baby click here! Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique is more than happy to offer their services toward nervous dogs who need accommodations and a loving touch to ease their way into grooming. Splash and Dash is not simply a grooming shop. The company offers a pet spa and salon experience that pampers your pets in sudsy luxury.

Finding a groomer is like finding a babysitter. You will want to leave your dog in trusting and professional hands.

 

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Do’s and Don’ts of Introducing the Family Dog to a New Baby

Relieve the Stress of Introducing Dog to Baby with These Tips to Make the Experience Memorable

Dogs are innately attuned to their owners. Most likely, as the nine months has progressed, your dog has felt the change in the air. Whether you have a nervous dog, a temperamental one, or a lover—using good judgment when it comes time for introducing the dog to your baby will help relieve stress. Studies have shown that a dog’s dander is actually good for an infant’s immune system! Yet making sure your dog is ready for the transition is important. This is for your child’s safety and the dog’s too. There are a few tricks and behavioral approaches you can use with your dog to ready them for the change.

Once a baby enters the house, inevitably, the dog will lose the spotlight as the center of attention. Your newly born child is going to take up much of your time. Your dog might exhibit some jealousy. Dogs can become confused with the new stimulus—the sight and smells of a little human creature might throw him off. As the family’s routine changes, adjusting to the new baby, your dog’s schedule will change too.

Preparing for this can be a smooth transition with careful preparation. A few dog training techniques and a peaceful introduction will support the bonding experience between your dog and the baby.

Start Before You Bring Home the Baby

Before the baby arrives is the best time to begin the acclimation process. Gradual changes to your dog’s routine will help prepare him. The trick is for the dog not to associate these changes with the baby. This will alleviate any tension.

You might need to change when your dog sleeps or introduce a dog crate if you don’t already have one. If your dog likes to jump up, blocking him off from the baby’s room will be helpful. Teaching your dog the trick “go to your place,” will also be extremely helpful. During times when you need your dog to be relaxed and out of the way use this command.

You don’t need to “wean your dog off affection” but be aware that if your time spent with the dog lessens, he might get jealous or anxious. The best way to handle this is to not have any abrupt changes when the baby comes home. You want to establish a positive association with the arrival of the baby.

You can play baby sounds at increasing intervals for your dog to adjust to the new sounds. It might seem excessive, but remember a dog’s hearing is much more acute than humans. A dog can hear a frequency range between 67-45,000 Hz compared with a human’s range at 64-23,000. This means that a baby’s crying might be frightening for a dog or at the very least unfamiliar and strange.

This same positive association exercise applies to smells. Before introducing the dog to your baby, take an article of the baby’s clothing and let your dog sniff to get accustomed to the scent. Give him a few treats for the positive association.

How to Handle the First Day

Just to be on the safe side, it’s a good idea to introduce your two children—one four legged, one two—a few days after you bring the two legged one home. Greet your dog alone first. You don’t want him to get excited and jump up on the baby. Of course, your dog is going to know something’s up, but this gives you and your spouse time to prepare, and time for the dog to adjust. A meeting in closer proximity should happen a few days later, especially if your dog is anxious.

When the time arrives put your dog on the leash first and allow him to sniff the baby. Praise, treats, and pets! Make sure your dog feels the love so that he can associate this with the baby. Most dogs have no trouble adapting, but being precautious never hurt. If everything goes smoothly, next time, you can have the two meet without the leash. Always allow your dog to approach the baby—invites prevent bites. If your dog has the choice to interact, they will respond better.

As the family settles down, don’t forget to continue to give plenty of affection when the baby is around. You don’t want him to identify good things with the baby’s absence. Once your baby begins to crawl make sure you are always close by watching. Dogs are tolerant but babies are exploring the world for the first time. They might pull on a dog’s tail or ears. Natural canine behaviors for communicating warnings could be snapping or growling.

Most of these tips are provisions. More than likely your dog and baby will be pals at first sight. Your dog will recognize your baby as one of the family and even be protective of your child!

Get Your Dog Relaxed

One of the best ways to have your dog be in the calmest state is treating them to a day of luxury at the pet spa. Splash and Dash Groomerie & Boutique offers tons of therapeutic and cleansing services for all dogs. Not only will your dog be nice and clean for the first day they will be relaxed.

Splash and Dash has an aromatherapy relax treatment with Canary Islands Lavender and Soothing Chamomile. Lavender is used as a tonic for healing burns and deters fleas as a strong antiseptic while Chamomile has pure fatty aromas which work as a natural sedative with exfoliating properties.

The Splash and Dash signature service is also something to consider with a newborn. Most of your time will be preoccupied with caring for your two-legged child. You don’t want to neglect the ‘pupperoni.’ With the signature service, you can drop the dog off for unlimited bathing and brushing at your convenience. This will free up your time for the more fun parts of having a dog.

 

Splash and Dash Services Include:

  • Standard & Showroom Style Grooming
  • Bath & Brush
  • Teeth Brushing
  • Nail Trimming
  • Aromatherapy
  • Facials
  • Pawdicures
  • De-Matting
  • De-Shedding
  • Ear Cleaning
  • And More!

 

We hope you new parents found this article helpful and we wish you congratulations and best wishes! Play Dirty. Live Clean!

 

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